Known for iconic structures like the Golden Gate Bridge and colorful neighborhoods like Fisherman's Wharf, San Francisco is surrounded by natural beauty, making it one of America's best cities to get out and enjoy a hiker's paradise. I'll share interesting moments on local trails easily accessed when in San Francisco.
One of the most nature-rich areas of San Francisco is the Marina District, where you can find relatively affordable motels and be close to Marin County, where 50% of the land is preserved park space. Marin is home to Muir Woods, where you can crank your head up to see some of the world’s tallest Redwood trees. And check out the wild Marin Headlands, just over the Golden Gate Bridge.
On weekends, I often take San Francisco's Muni Bus 76X to the Marin Headland's Fort Cronkite parking lot at Rodeo Lagoon. You'll find picnic benches, restrooms, and the Marine Mammal Center open daily 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Hundreds of rescued sick and injured California seals and sea lions are rehabilitated here. Take a docent-led tour before or after your hike. Be sure to bring water, food, and print a map of the area before you go. And keep your eyes open on the trails, for you never know what the elements may present that day.
A favorite trail in the Marin Headlands is the Miwok loop about 5 miles with 1,100 elevation gain and views that include the San Francisco skyline, Golden Gate Bridge, and miles of undeveloped protected land and wildlife, particularly seabirds along the coast, like the elegant Brown Pelican known for diving into coastal waters for schools of fish.
One Sunday, I started out on the Miwok loop trail (named for the indigenous people) from my usual spot at Rodeo Lagoon. The Miwok loop includes part of the Coastal Trail, and small offshoot trails with spectacular views. So walking north, I veered to the left around the first Coastal Trail sign, (about 1/8 mile up from Rodeo Lagoon), and the trail led to a stunning coastal view of bird rocks, dotting the landscape. Waves crashed against jagged rocks below high cliffs. Above blue skies, cumulous clouds, and Brown Pelicans flew north in a V formation.
It was windy that day when a fisherman raised his arm, extending a line over the cliff's edge. His line moved with the wind and his body swayed forward. I feared he'd tumble over the cliff, as his gaze followed a target. My gaze followed his shoes that gripped the rocky edge. His eyes fixated beyond the cliff. Pelicans circled above. The fisherman yanked his line, with difficulty. He'd caught something! More pelicans circled. By the dozens. A group of hikers watched.
A man shouted,
"The fisherman caught a Pelican's wing and the injured bird is floating!”
People peered over the cliff's edge. A pelican surrendered to the choppy waters, unable to fly. An impossible area for a rescue. I felt for the injured bird, and his flock. How did they communicate? What appeared to be hundreds, perhaps thousands, of Pelicans flew north, and stopped to circle their injured mate. Then flew off, allowing new Pelicans to circle. I thought to call the Marine Rescue line but there was no cell service. Another hiker said they'd circle back to the Marine center.
I wondered: If I were injured, would my tribe intuitively “circle"? How did the pelicans know and communicate? Are we all inter-connected with our people? I chose to believe yes.
California Coastal Trail and Lands End Trail in the Northwestern part of San Francisco
Adjacent to San Francisco's Marina district is the Presidio of San Francisco, part of the National Park Service, which offers 300 acres, 24-miles of trails, and eight scenic overlooks. The California Coastal Trail starts at the 25th Avenue Gate near Baker Beach. It is a 2.4 mile relatively easy walk, offering Golden Gate Bridge views along rocky bluffs with windswept Monterey Cypress trees and singing native birds. Get a map at the Presidio Visitor Center, and discover hidden gems like China Beach, and Andy Goldsworthy's natural art. He uses nature as his canvas, creating works such as Wood Line: A graceful sculpture of eucalyptus branches "drawn" on the forest floor parallel to the Presidio's oldest path, Lover's Lane.
The Presidio of San Francisco lies within the Pacific flyaway and over 200 species of birds have been identified here. Allen's Hummingbirds are common in spring and summer. Chestnut-backed Chickadees, Scrub Jays, and House Finches are common year-round. Look up and you'll often see Red-shouldered Hawks soaring above the Pacific. It’s a good challenge to photograph hummingbirds.
Lands End Trail is 3.4 miles, also along the California Coastal Trail. It starts near the famed Sutro Baths by the Cliff House, where you can walk down steep steps and see where San Franciscans once swam. At one point the baths accommodated 10,000 bathers! There's a Visitor's Center to drop in for maps and memorabilia. Then take the dirt trail, winding above ragged bluffs as you pass wildflowers, trees, birds, and more superb views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Be sure to stay on the trail and away from the edge.
Enjoy one of San Francisco's nearby vibrant trails for a visual treat that will surely live on in your memories.
When You Go:
San Francisco International Airport and Oakland Airport Offer Easy Access to San Francisco
Amtrak to Oakland with bus service to San Francisco
Marin Headlands Visitor Center (415) 331-1540
Presidio Trust (415) 561-5300
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