It started with a puffin.
Up-close and personal! I wanted to see the orange-billed, webb-footed horned and tufted puffins of Alaska's Kenai Fjords National Park, a marine wildlife sanctuary so beautiful it made me wonder why anyone would build a place of worship when natural beauty like this exists!
In this blog post, I’ll share highlights from my September 2014 train journey from Anchorage to Seward - gateway community to Kenai Fjords National Park - leaving one my favorite Kenai stories (sorry!) for an upcoming newspaper article to be published March 2015.
Did you know Alaska has hundreds of thousands of glaciers, abundant wildlife and conservationists to ensure that the wilderness stays wild? The heart of Alaska is accessible on one of my favorite public transportation options, The Alaska Railroad!
Let's go!

My journey to the puffins began on the Glacier Discovery Train with stops near Spencer Glacier and the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. This train is part of the Anchorage to Seward route considered one of the most scenic train routes in the world. Personable conductor, Davy Registe, made passengers comfortable, as we passed Cook Inlet where I saw beluga whales and eagles, and Potter Marsh - a special bird sanctuary during fall and spring migrations. The Alaska Range towered in the distance bathed in Alaska’s intense sunlight, the result of earth’s proximity to the sun and how our axis turns.
At my first stop, Portage, I opted for a ranger-led 2.6 mile easy round trip hike to Spencer Glacier through Chugach National Forest’s fall-colored willow, cottonwood and fireweed. Others floated on a raft.
The well-maintained trail led to Spencer Glacier, a giant river of ice that flowed from the Sargent Icefield.
Due to warming, its ice melt created a lake on which luminescent white and blue ice chunks floated.
Go conservationists!
Most exciting, AWCC is restoring the extinct wood bison back to Alaska! The wood bison once roamed Alaska for centuries before becoming extinct due to over-hunting and ecological changes. This historic conservation effort involved getting 13 bison from Canada’s Yukon Territory to breed and in 2015 the bison will be released into Alaska’s wild, about 300 miles west of Anchorage!
I walked a two-mile loop to see rescued wood bison, bear, musk ox, elk, moose, and caribou up-close set against the great Alaska outdoors.
That night at the luxury resort, Aleyska, I dined at Seven Glaciers restaurant high atop trees with glacier and waterway views. I took a tram but others walked the 2.2 steep trail. Known for excellent winter skiing, this is a year-round resort with big comfortable beds, forest views, a salt-water pool, gym, and great hiking trails right outside the door. Aurora Borealis sightings can be a treat for those arriving on cold and clear nights. (Ask for a wake up call!). Most importantly, the people of Alyeska truly go out of their way to make you feel like a treasured guest.
Staying one night at Alyeska gave me the opportunity to see just how special. I forgot my camera’s extra battery and charger in the room and didn’t realize my folly until the next day - hours from my Kenai puffin adventure. But, without even asking, Alyeska employee John, made arrangements to get my battery and charger back to me - not by flying it to my California home or sending it to my Millennium Anchorage hotel room (near the ANC airport scheduled days later) but getting the battery to me on the train while I was still enjoying Alaska’s beauty! Unlike California - so big and sprawling and so very many people squished together where it’s a miracle anything gets done through congestion - Alaska has the space amongst few people, who seem much more relaxed and thoughtful.
Awaking well-rested at Alyeska, a courtesy hotel driver took me to the nearby train stop to pick up the Coastal Classic Train with Goldstar service to Seward! Goldstar included two-level dome cars with large curved glass windows, an outside viewing platform, and dining room for all-inclusive meals, which was another chance to chat with other guests.
Whether Goldstar or standard, everyone got spectacular views. Plus, good Alaska manners! I’d learn people can wave a railroad conductor down - even if there is no designated stop - and the train will slow and pick them up! I haven’t confirmed it, but if so again Alaska people and their tourism system rock!
The coastal train passed through the 1063-foot summit pass of the Kenai Mountains called Grandview and passengers stood on the outside viewing deck to enjoy ever-changing scenic splendors.
Waterfalls cascaded along lush greenery on jagged mountains.
Our train snaked south: Moose Pass, Kenai Lake and five tunnels along the Placer River Canyon. Mountain goats navigated steep fjords. Silver salmon jumped in Salmon Creek.
In the “Mural Capital of Alaska” Seward, I checked into the Seward Windsong Lodge located amongst spruce trees next to Resurrection River. This tribally-owned CIRI tourism lodge offered fine dining and rooms with a view.
My room with a balcony overlooked a temperate rain forest, providing a peace I rarely experience and will never forget. Deep sleep in quiet is another gift of remote Alaska.
The lodge offered a free shuttle into Seward, and guided tours. I met tour guide Larry, and a group of tourists from around the United States, for a nearby Exit Glacier hike.
I could go on and on, but the rest of my journey to the puffins will need to wait until March 2015 because that’s the way publishing is for me these days.
A note for Alaska planning: Book your trip several months in advance, and consider the splendid Alaska Railroad. In a world where climate change is happening, and scientists agree that man has played a role, I encourage you to join me as a low-carbon traveler, and walk, bike, and take public transportation whenever possible. Let’s get out of our individual cars. It’s more sociable, too!
While I chose trains, boats, and hiking - you might consider river floats, fly-fishing, and kayaking. There are many tour operators right out of Anchorage, which has an accessible airport!
Plan your trip sooner than later to experience America’s last wild frontier! In Seward, I met tourist Bernita from Oceanside, California who excitedly told me,
“I’ve been planning my Alaska trip for 10 years. This trip has been amazing, the best trip I could possibly imagine! How wonderful seeing all the wildlife, birds, and landscape! I couldn’t believe it took me so long! I’m going to tell my family they have to come soon!”
My Alaska adventure went beyond scenic vistas, mind-blowing glaciers and colorful wildlife to sublime stillness, intense sunlight dancing with shadows, a marine symphony of birds and sea life ALIVE! and unhurried wholesome Alaskans.
Thank you to State of Alaska Tourism Office who helped make this trip possible.
IF YOU GO
Alyeska Resort - (800) 880-3880 Ahhhh luxury with a salt water pool!
Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center - (907) 783-2025 See rescued animals up close and personal without fear! Great photo opportunities!
Seward Windsong Lodge - (907) 224-7116 - Peaceful rooms with a forest view! Gourmet restaurant on premises!
Kenai Fjords Tours - (888) 478-3346 - LOVED this boat tour on Resurrection Bay!
Chinooks Bar and Grill - Seward Small Boat Harbor - Fine dining with a view!
Railroad Cantina (1401 4th Avenue across from Chinooks in Seward) - (907) 224-8226 Very casual atmosphere and excellent Mexican food. I recommend blackened halibut burrito with homemade pineapple salsa.
Alaska SeaLife Center at 301 Railway Avenue in Seward - (888) 378-2525 A marine research facility that promotes stewardship of Alaska’s marine ecosystems.
Zudy’s Cafe “Cake with a View” - 907-224-4710 - Located next to the Alaska Sealife Center. Owner Judy Odhner is one of the delightful Alaskans I met, who recently opened this quaint eatery. Wood floors, green walls, local artists’ paintings, fresh flowers, marina views, great fresh soups and sandwiches, cakes. I recommend veggie sandwich on homemade bread.
Alaska Railroad - (800) 544-0552 The best of public transportation, with one spectacular view after another!
What more can I say? This adventure was part of a ten-day Alaska journey, which started in Anchorage, where I enjoyed a Trolley Tour and sweet Marriott stay the first night before boarding the Denali Star train. To read about awesome Denali National Park and Preserve click here!
Until next time, breathe easy and make life an adventure!
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