While civilization marches on throughout the western world, it's refreshing to find areas that remain largely untouched. The Sunshine Coast of British Columbia is one such gem, whose regal mountains and waterways seem to whisper,
"Leave nature's grandeur alone!"
This is particularly true for the Upper of the two coasts, where Desolation Sound seems to have been crowned the unofficial "Crown Jewel".
Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park on the Upper Sunshine Coast is located between the Coast Mountains and Pacific Ocean. It is the premiere spot for boaters in the Pacific Northwest--yachtsmen, if you will--where sailing between grand fjords affords one majestic views, the same views explorer Captain George Vancouver saw when he discovered the area.
Captain Vancouver set sail from England in 1791 to make detailed maps of the hundreds of inlets, bays, coves, islands and sounds of the passage from northern Washington to Southeast Alaska.
Today, cruising and kayaking upon blue waters with islands, bays, and coves beacons modern-day adventurers to explore Desolation Sound--home to whales, seal lions, seals, porpoises and dolphins.
The only way to get to Desolation Sound is by boat, kayak or plane.
I did not have the experience; I only heard about it from just about everyone on the Sunshine Coast. I do hope to return to the watery Upper Sunshine Coast and do it right... by water.
The Upper Sunshine Coast feels bigger and more remote than the south yet offers much in the way of vibrant small town living in Powell River and Lund.
I arrived in Powell River during their annual Blackberry Festival where streets were closed off for locals enjoying music and festivities. I met an artist who told me this is a mecca for arts and crafts, and, naturally, enjoying incredible nature.
I like to read, and meandered into Kingfisher Used Books. The owners play classical music and made it comfortable to browse. I bought a memoir.
Powell River is one of the few places in Canada designated a National Historic District. They have a heritage hotel, the Rodmay Heritage Hotel, which has retained it's elegance from its 1911 opening. The Rodmay Heritage Hotel is located across from Powell River's historic pulp mill, which has been an important part of the area's industrial history.
If you're in Powell River and on a tight budget, I noticed a youth hostel in the center of town next to the best Thai restaurant I've ever been to called Thai Zone Restaurant. (I had vegetarian Pad Thai and white wine served in an over-sized goblet.) There's also Sunland-by-the-Sea campgrounds located in nearby Lund.
Lund is a fishing village that has the distinction of being located at the end of Highway 101, which begins in Chile. This makes Highway 101 one of the longest highways in the world. And quite fun to drive in this well-paved part of the world.
Lund is also in close proximity to Desolation Sound, though you still need a boat to get there!
I'm told there are many great places to stay in Lund, including The Desolation Sound Resort and Finn Bay Bed & Breakfast. The popular Laughing Oyster Restaurant offers a touch of luxury with a rustic view of Okeover Inlet and great food.
Terra-centric Coastal Adventures was recommended to take a water taxi to underpopulated and beautiful Savary Island.
Savary Island was up there with Desolation Sound as getting great word-of-mouth. I met a woman from Boise, Idaho on the B.C. Ferry headed to Powell River before heading off to Savary Island (only 5 miles long and .5 wide!) where she's gone every year for the past 30 years. She thinks it is the most beautiful paradise on earth. White sand beaches, warm waters, no paved roads. You get there by water taxi and if lucky book a room at the Savaray Island Resort.
Getting Here is half the fun. Seriously.
Drive - I flew from Los Angeles to Seattle (cheap Southwest flights) where I picked up a car and drove four hours to Horseshoe Bay, Vancouver. I took a B.C. Ferry to Gibsons on the lower Sunshine Coast.
The beauty of driving is the 177 kilometer or 110 mile long Sunshine Coast Highway (Interstate 101)-- a dream road of curves on the lower-coast, well-paved everywhere, offering breath-taking water and mountain views and, in my experience, no traffic.
Enjoy the view and feeling of king of the road.
Wherever you originate it's likely and highly recommended to take what is known as the most sophisticated ferry system in the world. You will glide on protected blue waters, spacious skies overhead, lush green hills in the distance. With car or without.... come. If you live on Vancouver Island, ask for price breaks on multiple ferry passes for Sunshine Coast journey.
Malaspina Coach Lines - bus goes from Vancouver to various Sunshine Coast destinations.
Westcoast Air - provides scheduled floatplane service and charters to Sechelt from Vancouver Airport (YVR), Vancouver Harbour, and Nanaimo.
Kenmore Air - has flights from Seattle to Pender Harbour, and are now mileage partners with Alaska Airlines
Tofino Air - provides scheduled floatplane service and charters from Vancouver Regional Airport and Vancouver Island into Sechelt. New service includes Victoria.
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