Gentle Float on the Fraser River with Doug Mooring of Cariboo Rivers Fishing & Wilderness Adventures

Let me tell you about a whirlwind 24 hours that included floating down the Fraser River in enough bubble wrap that you'd think I wouldn't need a boat to float, but then you haven't met Doug Mooring of Cariboo Rivers Fishing and Wilderness Adventures, who insisted I don the red.

Who cares that I forgot red lipstick; it's the law.

And you learn quickly around these woods, when you're an American in Canada, Canadians take laws and Americans seriously. 

I've come to learn that Americans are known for three things: The pursuit of Starbucks. The pursuit of happiness. And the pursuit of lawsuits.

Hence, I donned the red suit, and began my second journey down a body of water in a week.

I loved it!

I insisted on paddling--those are oars in my hands--which went over real well until I got tired.

Another plus to having a guide.

These days guides in The Bush are known as eco-tour guides, because they encourage us to hike, bike, and or, in my case, float down the Fraser River blown up like a gargantuan tomato while seeking wildlife that will run as soon as they see me coming. 

I mean, we.

We saw cows, deer, and eagles run and fly away.

And a paper mill in the distance.

We were floating along the Fraser River by downtown Quesnel--center of North America's lumber trade--instead of floating down Blackwater River, which I was told was fabulous, gorgeous, with plentiful, big fish that flyfishermen just love because I didn't want to drive, even as a passenger, for an hour and a half.

Blackwater River looks like the river in A River Runs Through It, I was told. Still I was a recovering Los Angeleno who spent more time navigating the treacherous 405 Freeway than most 10 year olds have spent playing. In their lifetime.

So we floated by Quesnel, as I made insightful commentary,

"Look, tumbling silt!"

Yes, silt on the banks of the Fraser River tumble from time to time due to water and erosion. And one wonders about homes, roads, and train tracks laid close above.

Then we looked below the blue float, seeking salmon finding their way home to spawn.

No luck today but frequently at this time of year salmon are seen in large groups.

We made it back to Doug's gorgeous lodge overlooking the Fraser River, complete with hardwood floors and his wife Teri who cooks three meals daily--thank you, Teri. And after lunch in an almost drugged-like state, for a float on the river makes one unusually relaxed, Doug decided we'd go jet-boating.

Jet-boating is a no-no for an environmentalist like me.

So, Sh! don't tell.

But I was lulled into complacency by that float, which I recommend if you want to relax, and Doug assured me the next ride would wake me up.

It would. Like a double expresso.

We headed for Cottonwood Canyon, a beautiful tree-lined canyon hugging the Fraser.

As you can imagine, I was tired of taking photos, and didn't capture the five elk we saw swimming across the Fraser.

Nor did I capture the eagles soaring over head, looking for salmon below.

Nor did I capture the wolf.

But here's a shot of deer I found earlier before they glimpsed me in this getup, and ran.    

By the time we made it to Cottonwood Canyon, it started raining.

Hard.

And the ride got rougher.

And the green leafy trees hugging the sides of the canyon swayed in the wind as we jetted by in whirling water.

Fast moving water.

A fast moving boat.

Splashing.

Soaking.

Wet!

And then I recalled on the Rocky Mountaineer train ride reading a book called The Fraser River, and I just looked up quote:

"Cottonwood Canyon just upriver from Quesnel is narrow enough to give the Fraser some turbulence... it provided more excitement than danger for early steamboat passengers."

I think Doug wanted to give me a quadruple expresso experience, just, for fun.

It was fun, and I'd love to tell you more about the Fraser River, the lifeblood of the Cariboo and most of B.C., and how it's lively, and moving, and home to nearby farmers and communities, and I'd love to tell you about the adventure I had with Doug in California Big Horn Sheep country where we did drive for hours on unpaved roads the day before but I've got a big day tomorrow and it's almost 2:00 a.m.

I will tell you if you're in Quesnel (and why wouldn't you be if you've discovered the Rocky Mountaineer's route toward Jasper... a once in a lifetime must do trip!) call Doug and Teri and book a relaxing float, or fly-fishing expedition or just chill at their lodge, overlooking the Fraser.

So stay tuned. Sweet dreams.

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